Thursday, May 24, 2012

Vintage

I bought this tube on the road. It was an old shop that had a bunch of over priced used bike stuff from the 90's. It wasn't until I left that I realized the tube was the wrong size and looks about 15 years old.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

This is my office

The Blue Ridge

The Blue Ridge has lived up to all of its reputation. Beautiful, pristine roads, that seem to climb for ever. I have had to readjust my rhythm for the mountains. Spending nine hours in the saddle of continuous climbs and descents is not the same as riding the flat coast.

As I crawl up the seemingly never ending hills I can feel every ounce of my bike battling with gravity and I question the need for every single piece of gear. After some 45min climb you might be rewarded with some epic down hill but they never last long enough. I keep telling myself that it's all worth it, put my head down and grind my way up the next hill.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Almost Heaven

After a farewell breakfast I made my way up the mountain to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I was excited and nervous all at the same time. It was going to be nice to have real campsites and cooler temperatures but I knew it was going to come at a price. I night before I did a little too much research and found out the the 450 mile Blue Ridge Parkway has over 45,000 feet of climbing (Mt. Everest isn't even 30,000 feet). This bit of knowledge can play some pretty strong head games with you but I did my best to push through.

The Parkway is full of cyclist so I was able to ride with different groups from time to time. The conversations would always lead to horror stories that sounded like something out of a Tolkien novel, of climbs up vertical cliffs, people pushing their bicycles, and lack of supplies from stop to stop. None the less the conversation would end with something like, "but I'm sure you will make it".

After the first day I had only gone 70 miles. I pulled into camp and my legs felt like noodles. I kept saying to myself "did I really only go 70 miles, maybe my computer is broken." I had a little bit of doubt creeping in.

After pitching my tent the neighbors from the next site over came by to here what I was doing, I gave them my elevator speech and they invited me over for dinner. It was good to be with other people for a change. Up until now I was usually quietly hiding in some clump of bushes hoping no one would find me. Although the company was nice I had to get some sleep. I couldn't shake the thought of the next mornings challenge, a 13 mile continuous climb from the lowest elevation on the Parkway to the highest elevation in Virginia.

A visit with Mike and Mary

With a good tail wind it didn't take anytime at all to reach aunt Mary and uncle Mike's hobbit home. As I mentioned before Mike and Mary are building a mountain home but while that home is being built they have rented a quant little one bedroom mountain cottage that has become known as their little hobbit home.

I was lucky to have that tail wind because I made it just in time for happy hour. We traveled down the road (by car) to a small micro brew called Blue Mountain Brewery. We enjoyed a glass beer as we watched the sun begin to set behind the mountains. Realizing that we still had steaks to consume at the hobbit house we decided it would be in our best interest to get a Growler to go.

Back at the cottage I got Mike and Mary caught up on all my stories from the road and they shared their experience becoming recently retired.They would say something like "we just wake up in the morning and decide what to do, when we get tired we go to sleep and wake up when our bodies feel rested. If we get tired of somewhere we come see how the new house is coming along or go visit family." We agreed that retirement sounds a lot like bike touring.

The next morning they took me up the Blue Ridge Parkway to the build site of their new mountain home. I made sure I staked a claim to one of the bedrooms for my future visits.

On the way down the mountain I couldn't stop thinking about the Blue Ridge. Although I had been intimidated by the climbs I was intrigued by the cool crisp air and beautiful vistas. With the help of Mike and Mary I convinced myself to abandon my original plans of following the coast and follow the Appalacian's down to Georgia.

After we got off the mountain we stopped at a great little hole in the wall BBQ. My mouth began to salivate from the smell of the smoke coming from behind the building. I am convinced BBQ is with out a doubt the best fuel for cycling.

From Middleton to Middleton

After visiting with Jason and Kimberly I had planned on seeing Jason's parents (my aunt and uncle) who live south of DC. Well because of my delay with the weather Mary and Mike weren't at their house south of DC, they were in Charlottesville VA checking up on the mountain home they are building. For those of you who don't know Charlottesville is not next to DC, it is west of Baltimore in the Appalachian Mountains.

Well if it was anyone else I probably would have stayed on my original route but if you have ever meet Mike and Mary you would understand. I knew what. I had to do, so I headed for the mountains.

The two day trip was a fantastic cruise through the Virginia country side. My body felt good, the sun was shinning, and the roads began to roll over the foot hills of the Appalachians.

Baltimore

After the long and arduous ride from Manhattan I had finally made it to my cousins house in Baltimore. Jason is one of my oldest cousins and has always lived 1000 miles away. The separation in age and physical space has meant that we aren't able to see each other nearly enough.

Jason and his wife Kimberly have grown roots in Baltimore with their two children Max and Sarah. When Jason and Kimberly heard about my trip south they were so kind as to open their doors to me.

After 11hrs in the saddle my body told me if I didn't slow down it was going to quit. I decided that warm hospitality and good company of Baltimore was the best place to get a little rest and relaxation.

I spent the next day catching up on sleep until Max got out of school. Max reintroduced me to baseball (I think I was 9 last time I played) and although I had a blast with my cousins it reminded me why I ride bikes and why I'm not in the majors.

That night I was able to catch up with. Jason while Kimberly helped me plan out a route to Charlottesville.

I wish that we didn't live so far apart because Jason and Kimberly have a special family and I am glad to be a part of it.

PS Kimberly, I hope your triathlon was a great success

Sorry for the delay

I just want to say sorry for not keeping up with the blog. I have had a change in my route and have not had Internet access.

Let's get everyone up to speed.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

The Longest Day

When I left New York the skies were grey and the threat of rain lingered. I pointed in the direction of Baltimore and began pedaling, pedaling hard. My cousin Jason had offered to let me stay with him and his family in Baltimore. I had planned on making this a two day trip but the combination of bad weather and solid suburbia between New York and Baltimore convinced me to try to make it one shot.

This was the longest I have ever spent on a bike. I started in Manhattan, continued through Delaware, traversed my way through Philly, and ended in Baltimore. I pedaled hard and fast. I kept my head down, only took breaks when I absolutely had to and battled the rain, traffic, and big city slums. My mind (and butt) was numb and my legs felt like noodles.

At last I made it, I didn't think I could but I did. It turns out a warm shower and bed can be big motivator to get you to do things you didn't think were possible.

New York City

Like I mentioned before my original plan was to skirt NYC as quickly as possible but plans change and I'm glad they do. New York was amazing. My friend Jack's fifth floor walk up comes complete with a private roof top patio in Manhattan. Jack was in the middle of finals for law school but took time out of his schedule to grab dinner at a great little pizza place and enjoy a beer on his roof top patio.

Jack offered to let me stay another night and I couldn't say no to a day in the city. Jack was buried in school work so I was on my own for the morning. I made it to St Patricks for Church and found myself distracted by all of the ornate detail of the church. When i got back to the apartment I caught up on laundry and enjoyed coffee on the roof. The weather was amazing and I felt like I should be in movie.

My cousin Rawley is the closest thing to a New Yorker I know. She graduated from NYU and has been working for MTV for the last 4-5 years. I knew I couldn't come to the city without seeing her. We met for brunch and caught up on what was been happening in our lives. After brunch she gave me the grand tour of all of her favorite places. I walked her back to her place and continued wandering the city by myself.

Jack finished all of his school work for the day and we met up to grab dinner. We spent the evening reminiscing about old times and talking about what future might hold. I am really glad I was able to stay in New York, although it wasn't part of the original plan it turned out to be one of the highlights.

Long Island, NY

On the advice of some trusted sources I decided I would hop the Long Island Sound and ride Long Island into the city instead of going through all of Connecticut. As soon as the ferry docked into Orient Point I knew I had made the right decision. Long Island is beautiful, full of vineyards and goat farms. I thought to myself that these are the roads that people must ride when they pay to go on a guided bike tour. I was still riding with Ryan but I told myself I would ride my own program from the start. It didn't really matter because Ryan was still recovering from yesterday's ride. After just a few short hours Ryan told me that he has decided to throw in the towel and catch a train home.

Riding with Ryan thought me a big lesson about touring or any big adventure for that matter. While it can be hard to do a big trip by yourself you should be really careful not to do a big adventure with just anyone. It takes the right person to be a good partner. You must be able to get along, have similar goals and skill levels, both should bring unique skills to the table, you should know your partners abilities so you can push them to their limits without pushing them over the edge. In short it's hard to find a really good partner but what I have discovered is that if that person (Adam Duce) can't make the trip you might be better off going at it alone.

My original plan was to camp on Long Island and wake up early so I could get through NYC as quickly and painlessly as possible. When I was on the East side of the island, amongst the farms and vineyards, I thought I would have no problem finding a place to through up a tent. As I got closer to the city the farms and vineyards turned into suburban sprawl. I began to panic, I needed to figure out a plan quick. I realized I needed to make it into the city and find a place to crash. I blasted everyone I knew with text messages trying to find a place to stay last minute. Luckily I have some great friends and family and found a place to stay. Now I just needed to navigate the concrete jungle of NYC to find Jack's apartment in Manhattan. Dodging taxi cabs and pedestrians I finally made it to the apartment. I was able to experience the joys of a fifth floor walk up with my bike and panniers, that was super fun, but I was relieved to have found a place to stay in the Big Apple.


Ferry to Ferry

When I got off the ferry I was approached by a fellow passenger who also had his bike with him. He was about my age, with dreads, sunglasses, and a small backpack. He road a pretty entry level mountain bike that looked pretty new. He asked me where I was going and I told him I was on my way to Florida but was trying to get to New London so I could catch the ferry to Long Island. He lit up as he told me that was where he was from. He explained that he had just his bike a few weeks ago and had caught a ride out to the vineyard and wanted to ride back home.

Riding by yourself day after day can get old quick. I was a little concerned that I was riding a fully loaded touring rig and he was riding a much lighter rig with no gear. I decided I would give riding with him a shot and it's a good thing because it didn't take long to realize he had no clue what he was doing. He had know maps and had no idea how exactly he was going to make it home.

It started off ok, we were moving at a fast pace and we spent the first hour talking back and forth which made the miles go be really fast. After a while we settled into a grove and the conversation started to die down. We were flying down the road, I knew that my bike probably weighed 5x what his did but I refused to be left in the dust by some newbie. We kept this up all the way till Providence, RI where we decided to stop for lunch.

Providence is a really cool town and very well set up for cycling. On the advice of a local college student we met on the street we went to Trinity Micro Brew for a beer and a sandwich

After lunch it was back on the bike, we planned on making it to New London that evening which was around 110miles so we couldn't mess around too long. We were going way to hard for my liking so I knew I had to swallow my pride and slow my pace. I began to drop back and I began riding my own program. It didn't take long until I caught back up with Ryan. I could tell he was cooked, he went way too hard way too fast on a ride this long and now he was paying for it. Luckily I was with him when he got his first flat (yes I said first). Of course he had no idea how to fix a flat so I took over for him. Once we got rolling again it was clear he didn't have much juice. I began to ride away from him and had contemplated continuing the rest of my ride solo. I decided out sympathy I couldn't leave Ryan all by himself, so I continued at my own pace but I would wait periodically for Ryan to catch up and make sure he was still alive. I will give it to him, after a long day we did make it to New London which is a long ride for anyone cyclist or not.

Road Riding In The Vineyard

Back On The Bike

After my extended stay on the Vineyard it was time to get back on the road. It was really hard to bring myself leave the comforts of the island, I had a warm place to stay with great company while I was there.

I knew what I had to do, so I packed my gear and said farewell to Stephen and Cody. I boarded the first ferry to the main land and tried to plan for my days ahead.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Martha's Vineyard

My original plan for Martha's Vineyard was to take a day or two break from the bike to visit with my friends Cody and Stephen. Cody and Stephen work at one of the local bike shops in Martha's Vineyard and were kind enough to take me in while I was visiting. It was nice to be off the bike and recharge the batteries. I had originally planned on having two days in the Vineyard but some bad weather has rolled in and I have been delayed. I am glad that I have some place warm and dry to wait out this wet New England weather.

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

I'm Alive

I made it through the night unscathed and have never been so happy to leave a camp site. It was still early, about 6am when I started. I stopped into a donut shop to recharge before I navigated through the big city.

I made into Boston around 8 o'clock and found a small church that had mass. I was still in bike clothes and hadn't showered in a few days so i sat in the back as to not draw too much attention to myself.

I successfully navigated the streets of Boston without too much heartache. I had planned to camp somewhere between Boston and Woods Hole whew I would then catch the ferry to Martha's Vineyard to stay with my friend Cody and Stephen for a few days. After getting south of Boston the thought of a warm shower and a good nights rest started to sound more and more appealing. I decided to try my best to make it to Woods Hole that night instead of camping. Once again I had good weather, a bit windy, but it was sunny and warm. I stuffed some snacks in my handle bar bag and kept my rest breaks to a minimum.

With a little luck I was able to make it to the dock in time to catch the 7:30pm ferry to Martha's Vineyard. Stephen and Cody meet me on their bikes at the dock. It was dark out but the moon was bright as we road to their house.

8hours and 45minutes in the saddle today. I'm going to sleep well tonight.

Boston

After a great day on the bike I had almost made it to Boston but it was getting dark and I needed a place to stay. I was lucky enough to find a sign for a state park that was just 6miles off the road. With the sun setting and my phone dying, I kicked it into gear so I would arrive before it got too dark.

After about a half hour I arrived at Lynn Woods. I thought the large brown highway sign had read State Park but when I arrived it looked more like a nature preserve in the middle of a major metropolitan area. There was clearly no camping and the park closed at sunset. I was stuck, it was already dark and I was in the middle of a Boston suburb. I quietly scouted out an area trying to find a compromise between being out of view but not too far out of sight so if I got into trouble someone could find me.

I settled on a spot and started to pitch my tent. I heard someone walking close by so I crotched down and turned off my headlight. I was silent. I was pretty sure the person didn't see me but I could see him. I watched for about 10 minutes as he walked back and forth about fifty feet from one spot to another. I couldn't see what he was doing but I didn't want to get any closer and find out. Finally I saw him leave and I was able to stand up again. I started to let my imagination run away from me for a minute but realized quickly that I didn't have a choice and I better just get through it.

I finished pitching my tent and crawled into my sleeping bag. I hadn't had dinner but didn't want to risk cooking, a snickers will have to do. I said my prayers and fell asleep, for a short while. Every hour or two I would wake up and tell myself I needed to get moving before the sun came up, I would look at my watch and it would be 1am. I drifted back to sleep but would continue waking up every few hours.

Here comes the sun

Finally!!! After sloshing around in the rain and riding under grey skies, the sun has decided to come out for the first time on my trip.

I feel fantastic and my spirits are high! I started pedaling south and was amazed at how well I felt. I was really comfortable in the saddle and my legs felt strong. I increased my average speed by nearly 25% and it felt better than ever. I had a huge grin on my face as I road the rolling hills south towards Boston.

I felt a small accomplishment when I crossed the state line into New Hampshire and another victory when I crossed into Mass. Finally I was making some real headway and I was loving it.

Rainy Day

Bad weather has kind of got me down today. I am wet and cold and trying to find my way out of Portland. I kind of got turned around when my original route had me getting on an interstate that had large signs that read No Bicycles. I tried to regroup and look at me maps and consulted Google Maps but it was all very confusing. I would ride for a little while and stop and ask for directions, people would scratch their heads and start pointing every which way. "oh yeah just keep going straight down this road, you will see a house with a front door but just keep on going". After two hours of navigation I ended up at the on ramp to the interstate I had begun all of this mess at. Ahhh!!! I had to use a life line. I called Kaitlin and she guided me to safety.

Part of a well balanced diet

Friday, May 4, 2012

To Portland

I woke up and broke camp. After my tent was packed up I sat on a picnic bench overlooking the lake and made some breakfast. I thought to myself that this is why I tour, this is what makes it all worth it. I finished my oatmeal and hit the road. My goal was to make it to Portland that evening, which seemed very doable. The previous day Kaitlin researched Warm Showers and found a host in Portland I could stay with. I was making good time and was in high spirits. I finally was starting to feel stronger on the bike, the climbs seemed smaller and my 100lb behemoth didn't seem all that heavy.

Before I arrived in Portland I passed through Freeport, home to L.L. Bean. I knew I couldn't come to Maine without making the pilgrimage to the Mecca of adventure outfitters. L.L. Bean lived up the reputation of all those who recommended it, including the late Charles Kuralt.

I made it to Portland around six and had no problem finding my host house. Steve and Nancy were about the age of my parents and very kind to take me in on such short notice. After a hot shower, Steve offered to show me around the town while Nancy finished preparing supper. Steve and Nancy are no strangers to touring, they started in their twenties with a trip across the U.S. and haven't stopped. They have toured in over 25 countries including, most of Europe, India, Thailand, Iceland , to name a few. We spent the night sharing stories as I tried to absorb as much knowledge as I could.

Steve and Nancy are people I really admire. They have chosen to make cycling a part of their life. They carve out time every year to take a trip somewhere and when they are not touring they are hosting other cyclists. They have rejected the idea of what the "American Dream" is and have set out to make their own.

Favorite Snack

Onward

After a rough start on the bike I was determined today was going to be a better day. I slipped into slightly damp bibs and jerseys and pedaled south from Ellsworth. Although the humidity was high and winds were cold I was glad to be out of the rain. I began to get into the groove of riding and putting some miles behind me. The ride was beautiful as the road hugged the rocky coast of Maine. I passed through town after town of small fishing villages and always took the time to stop in and talk to the locals. Shop owners would talk to me about everything from the best places to eat, local politics, and of course the best route to take south.

At the end of the day I found myself in Rockland. I went into town to restock on supplies and find a place to stay. Everyone I spoke with told me that all of the campsites were still closed for the winter and no one jumped at the chance to host a dirty cyclist. I saw a couple patches of woods that I thought might make suitable places to lay low for the night but after further investigation I decided against them.

In a last ditch effort I went into a Subway to hopefully gain some information. The young girl behind the counter was very nice in taking my order, as she assembled my sandwich
I took the opportunity to ask about a place to stay. She took a minute and then told me about a park up the road. She said that your not really allowed to camp there but she was pretty sure she saw people do it before. The sun was setting fast so I took her advice. The park turned out to be a beautiful spot right on a lake with old homes perched high on the surrounding hills. I found a spot out of view and pitched my tent.

Day One On The Bike

Taking the advice of Paul and Leslie I decided to head out of my was to visit Acadia National Park in Bar Harbor. The skies were grey and the temps hardly hit 40 degrees but weather aside I was glad to be on the bike. As I started making my way towards Bar Harbor I took notice to the rolling hills and the weight of my bike, all signs that I was just starting my trip and not yet adjusted to the bike. Within an hour the skies opened up and the rain began to fall. At this time I was still in high spirits and told myself a rainy day on the bike is better than a sunny day in the office. Fast forward two hours or so I was. Still on the bike but now I was completely soaked to the bone and was looking for a refuge from the cold wet rain.

The road to Bar Harbor was a quite country road so when I crossed an old General Store I quickly pulled in. As I approached the door a saw a hand made sign that read CLOSED FOR WINTER. I was devastated, I decided I wouldn't get back on the bike until I got warmed up. I tried to seek refuge by hiding behind one of the stores wall while I made a cup of coffee.

After the cup coffee and still cold a ever I knew I needed to get back on the bike. I continued riding into the driving rain and strong headwinds. Occasionally a large truck would buzz by splashing a wave of water all over me, I think they call this insult to injury .
After going back and forth with myself I decided to abandon my plans for Bar Harbor and stay the night in Ellsworth. I found a cheap motel and attempted to warm up and dry out. I walked across the street to the grocery store to buy something for dinner and a cold beer. It wasn't until the next morning that I looked at the bottle cap from my beer.

Stephan Kings Home

Paul & Leslie

Paul and Leslie were fantastic hosts that went out of their way to make sure I felt out home. If you didn't know any better you would think they ran a full blown bed and breakfast. After a delicious dinner Paul offered to show me around the town. We drove all over as Paul explained what the town had to offer, local economy, and interesting landmarks (including Steven Kings home). We concluded the tour with a stop at a local joint called Goveners for what Paul described as obnoxiously big piece of pie. Back at the house we shared stories and started to map out my journey. After a good nights sleep I departed under the grey skies of Bangor.

Paul and Leslie were what I would call genuinely good people. They have made choices like eating vegetarian, exercising daily, and unplugging the television (not to mention taking in cyclists). The most valuable piece of information that Paul and Leslie shared with me was something called Warm Showers. Warm Showers is a network of hosts just like Paul and Leslie that take in cyclists that are touring. How have I not looked into this before?